Saturday, November 10, 2012

ul. Karmelicka


The question of living quarters has been settled without recourse to my cousin’s gypsy lawyer real-estate agent. I had begun to draft a note to him in Polish, then, thinking better of the challenge, delayed. In the meantime occasioned by this delay, my friend and colleague, Dr. hab. Monika, has secured for me most suitable accommodations, a studio apartment on ul. Karmelicka, Carmelite Street, not far from the order’s house, which gives name to the thoroughfare. So, the Carmelite brothers will be my neighbors, and while not strictly avowed to silence, but only more or less quiet contemplation, prayer, and activities that keep them out of trouble, they strike me as my kind of brothers and neighbors. The small cell that will house me for six months of Polish devotion has an agreeable, monkish air of simplicity (though without austerity), utility, and a corridor of rusticated masonry. Old brick, the touchstone, for me, of memory.

I learn, belatedly, and as a result of my own reluctance to discover difficulties, especially bureaucratic ones, that I need a visa to remain in Poland longer than 90 days. Duh. A country reasonably wants to know why you might linger beyond the typical stay of a tourist. You might be up to no good. Of course, if you were up to no good, you would merely need to invent a lie to cover your ill intentions—thereby adding to your no-goodedness. Fortunately though (because I’m a lousy liar, even of honest white lies), I have perfectly good reasons; it’s just that now I have to make a special trip to the Polish consulate in Chicago to file the application and pay the new fee. Schedule an interview. Immerse myself in Chicago traffic. And I have to say that after reading Gombrowicz’s fictional account of his encounters with Polish officialdom in Trans-Atlantyk, I sigh non-fictively. I’ve got about six weeks. Pick a Friday.