Friday, January 18, 2013

W Krakowie


“Why should she be in the bowels of a ship ploughing through sullen, turbulent waters going to a foreign continent alone? Why? Why?” (Betsy and the Great World, M.H. Lovelace, p.20)

On my last day in the office, my colleagues sent me off with a packet of “steamer letters” with which to beguile the nausea aboard the Shanghai as it tossed and bobbed and rolled on the swells of a winter Atlantic. We all know how that turned out—to date. I find their inspiration compelling; and a more thoughtful, whimsical, literate, and hopelessly well-intended (“go easy on the vodka”) crew cannot exist in a man’s working life. But having read Letter #1, with the attached chapter of Betsy and the Great World as a sort of framing device, I’ll defer reading further until I am circumstanced on a boat. However tight, the confines of a 350-seat CanadaAir 777 cannot replicate the queasy conditions of a steamer, especially on a voyage of only seven hours. Sea-faring humanizes the traveler, makes a man aware of bodily functions.

It is something godlike to fly. Having winged to Poland now three times previously, and to Europe once before, I find its sublimity undiminished even as flight has become familiar, reliable. Certain details change, of course, the particular lintiness of the clouds, the snowiness of fields below like cracked bathroom tile, almond bark, milky quadrilaterals. This trip, snow began to fall in Toronto as we boarded, and the long, long wings required de-icing with a steam cannon, a first for me. But otherwise, flight, sacramental in its beauties, again uplifted, like a cathedral: the whole body, not just the eyes.

At some point in the night, I flew over the Rickmer’s Shanghai.

Along with Betsy and the Great World, en route to Kraków, I finished, oh so appropriately, Czesław Miłosz’s Native Realm: A Search for Self-Definition. A subject and a student of totalitarianisms, Nazi and Communist—among other self-definitions—Miłosz concludes his personal account with the following:

when ambition counsels us to lift ourselves above simple moral rules guarded by the poor of spirit, rather than choose them as our compass needle amid the uncertainties of change, we stifle the only thing that can redeem our follies and mistakes: love. (p. 300)

Good terms on which to end a book and a flight. I’m in Kraków.