Hunger
So, it
appears that I have eaten headcheese, unwittingly, not entirely unintentionally
and not a lot, a slice, but, you know, enough. Seeing that I am a finicky
eater, wybredny, though they would be
too polite to say so, my Borowicz cousins asked if there were any Polish
particular I might like to try. “Kasza,”
I said, or thought I said. Kasza I
understand to be a dish of boiled cereal grains, buckwheat groats—gryka, which I fancied to be somehow the
linguistic root for “grits.” Something like grits. A little butter, a little
cheese, maybe even something sweet folded in. (Typical Polish fare, cold egg
dishes and cold cuts for breakfast, śniadianie,
are not to my liking.) I also remembered reading in Żeromski’s The Faithful River that kasza provided a certain insurgent food
for the national soul: “He scowled at the injured man [insurgent] as the latter
lifted the scalding kasha to his mouth with trembling hands and swallowed it
hurriedly and with indescribable relish, burning his lips as he ate. Soon the
bowl was empty, and the delicious kasha was eaten to the last mouthful.”
(18-9). So, “kasza,” I thought I said. Then they asked me dark or light,
which somehow, eventually, got us on to the topic of kiszka—had I misspoken and said kiszka
originally?—which is a dark, blood sausage I was willing to try but much more
circumspectly. I can’t recall exactly where the conversation went after that.
At any rate, I’ve not yet eaten kasza, but
finding myself in the meat market after our trip to Szymbark, I was pointed to
dark tubes of meat product expectantly. “Would I like to try?” I gestured
non-commitally at a window, and the ekspedientka
shaved off some slices from a marbly, violet block of … salceson ozorowy.
It
was tongue. It wasn’t bad tongue, even after I found out what it was, a little
rubbery, purple, but otherwise non-descriptly mild, a lot better than I
imagined tongue would taste. On this trip north, I’ve also sampled śledź, “herring,” which had every
appearance of being raw, and smalec,
“lard,” seasoned in this case, but still lard.
None of these staples would I have ever otherwise put into my mouth, but
I have to say that they have elevated my sense of the Polish palate by not
being as bad as I had originally feared. And I’ve had delicious things, too, wyśmienity. The Easter pork loin with
prune filling surprised and delighted, and Elżbieta prepares an excellent
meatball of ground pork shoulder around a mushroom core and a cutlet of chicken
breast, breaded, pan-fried, with a thick coat of podlaski cheese. And then there are the cakes, ciastki—but we will leave those until another time and an entry all
their own.
When
eating experimentally, I find it helpful to actually be hungry, głodny. How much of “indescribable
relish” and deliciousness attribute to genuine biological need. Hunger improves so many
foodstuffs.